Tuesday, June 9, 2009

SWEET THINGS and NOT

Just a very short post today---an appliance is breathing its last---seems we have replaced several in the past few months, and we did NOT acquire them all at the same time. This is like having moved into a new house with all new stuff, and after a while, everything goes "on the fritz" in a frustratingly-short time frame.

From last year's Mothers' Day, when Caro presented me with a new washer, to today when Chris is doing research on this latest thing, we've had to get a new dishwasher and water softener system, and have had Curtis the Ice-Machine repairman as practically an adopted son.

Perhaps a handbasket would be preferable to this one-horse-shay-ride. But probably not.

So, just a couple of little thoughts on sweet things for our tea: Tiny brownie cupcakes, upside down and coated with a lovely shiny ganache, and Ambrosia Cake---named by a long-ago client who requested "that good orange cake you make for wedding cakes, but with coconut." And since orange and coconut are the two main requisites for a big ole cut-glass dish of cool, fresh Ambrosia---the name stuck.

CUPCAKE BROWNIES: Makes about 2 dozen mini brownies.

Oven 325. Pam mini-muffin pans. You pour ganache over these upside-down on a rack, so don’t use paper liners.


These are the brownies I made when I first started cooking---straight off the Hershey's box. Few people make brownies with anything but chips or chopped semi-sweet or Baker's, but there's just something about the taste of that cooked sugar and cocoa and butter that's just slightly missing with chips.

1 stick butter, melted
1 c. sugar
1 t. vanilla
2 eggs
½ c. plain flour
1/3 c. cocoa
¼ t. bp
¼ t salt
1 c. mini chips

Any kind of nuts you like, but they're optional.

Sift flour, cocoa, bp and salt; stir in the chips. Stir together butter, sugar, vanilla and eggs. Stir two mixtures together and fill pans 2/3 full. Bake 16—18 minutes; top will be shiny and a little cracked when done.

Cool brownies rightside up on racks over a large pan with at least ½ inch rim. Cool, then flip brownies; pour ganache---twice if you like it thick, but allow first coat to dry. Decorate with angelica or a dainty piped flower or whatever fits your theme or color scheme. I've been meaning to do that new-fangled thing with tiny crystals of Maldon Salt atop the ganache, as well.


¾ c. heavy cream
½ lb. dark semi-sweet chocolate, chopped---
I bought TWO eleven-pound slabs of Callebaut several years ago. They stayed in a cool room, tightly wrapped and bagged, and the last one is still fresh as ever---not a sign of bloom.

2 T butter

Bring cream just barely to boiling point in small heavy pot. Add chocolate and butter. After five minutes, stir well with a whisk til every lump is gone and the mixture is silky and shiny.

Pour carefully over each brownie. I like to use a small gravy ladle, giving the coat on the top a little round stroke to send it down the sides. Use a small spatula to be sure sides are covered. Some will drip into the pan beneath, and can be gently reheated and used if no crumbs went into it.

Slide a small spatula beneath the cupcakes with the lines of the rack and lift gently onto serving trays. Do not pick up ganache-covered anything with fingers.

AMBROSIA CAKE

Tear a sheet of waxed paper just larger than a 10” round cake pan. Set pan on paper and carefully draw around outside of pan with sharp tip of a knife. Cut out circle with scissors and lay it in bottom of cake pan which has been sprayed with Pam.

1 Duncan Hines Butter Recipe Cake Mix
¼ cup. Tang drink mix---(dry)
Mix together and then make and bake cake as package directs. Let rest in pan for about 10 minutes, then run a little spatula around the cake to loosen, flip onto rack and peel off paper. Cool completely.

While cake is cooling on rack, put ¼ c. milk into a med. bowl. Stir in 1 pack Sweet & Low and 1 tsp. coconut flavoring. Add a package of shredded coconut and press down into liquid. When cake is frosted, drain well and press again, this time with a couple of thicknesses of paper towels. Coconut should be lusciously moist, but not drippy---that would pool and ruin the bottom of your frosting.


(If you're making this as a plain white or yellow cake, this is when you'd tint the coconut, if you want to. Just stir a couple of drops of McCormick's into the milk and toss the coconut til it's thoroughly colored. Proceed with draining and pressing, etc.). And even prettier is the little glimpses of tinted pink or other pale frosting, peeking through the glistening white coconut.

Frosting:
2 8 oz packs cream cheese (softened)
½ stick butter (softened)

Dash of salt
1 tsp. vanilla
3 c. powdered sugar (Or the whole box, depending on how moist you like frosting).

Cream butter, salt and cream cheese with mixer til light and fluffy. Beat in powdered sugar, one cup at a time, then stir in vanilla. Frost top and sides of layer. No need for a lot of smoothing or swirls. Toss coconut with fork, then apply to just-frosted cake, top and sides, pressing in with gentle pats.


I "dress" the cake directly on the tall cakestand, since the nice curved lip helps keep errant strands in place, and I can pick them right up and apply them again. This is stunning on a sunlit tea-table, especially with twists of candied, sugared orange peel as garnish.

I never "wish my life away" but suddenly I'm longing for July.

Monday, June 8, 2009

WINDFALLS AND PURPOSE

Windfalls are usually the last apples on the tree, or the possibly bruised, battered ones which fell prey to a violent windstorm. tumbling to the ground sometimes before their time, but welcomed by scavengers, both human and animal, and the great delight of wasps, whose drunken buzzes and swoops attest to their sips at the fermenting ones. Finding the fruit in the weeds and grass is indeed a stroke of luck, but probably not as great as the word WINDFALL has come to mean---that's used for everything from an inheritance to a Trifecta to being given a gift or a raise.

Our own windfalls in the yard are not wonderful-though-damaged fruit or even a lucky happenstance---they're great piles of sticks and limbs and debris and clumps of leaves which leave the lawn and garden looking TACKY, to say the least. So I called in help for picking up and carrying away the worst of it. Our dear neighbors are having a special anniversary party next week, and I'd JUST DIE if one of their guests looked over here and saw a messy yard. (I do hope that just because we're Southern, they don't think our name is Snopes, though our custody of seven grills at this moment is a fact not to be trifled with, overlooked, or ignored. But I'd prefer that they not infer that we might have our "plumbing" in one of the buildings out back).

So, in getting a head-start on our own garden party in July, I'm trying to create a graceful, peaceful scene-across-the-fence. Making ready in fits and starts and dibs and dabs---that's what I'm doing. I take a few minutes here, a little moment there, and whatever is to hand, I try to accomplish a small thing---baby steps, almost, as there's quite a bit of activity around here lately, and much coming and going and a sweet companion who not only follows my steps, but now charges ahead of them so that I have to sprint to keep up, or fly to catch her before the street, whichever applies.

Today, Caro's day off, we had coffee out in the arbor, then manned (is there such a work-word as Ladied?---it would connote the same thing, just not so sweaty or involve beer-breaks) the loppin'-shears and the pruning saw. I'm each time astonished when I look up into that green ceiling we're creating, to see so many leafless, lifeless limbs and sticks and twigs. We try to eye each one to its tip, making sure we're not cutting off anything with life left in it, unless it's just blocking one entrance or the other, or the little "windows" we've cut out of the front. And I find myself leaving tiny "stobs" on various limbs, for the convenience of hanging a lantern or perhaps more windchimes.

So, just two days after the lawn guys swept and picked up and carted away all last week's debris and fallen leaves, we've created another mess that DS will carry away to the "mulch-folks" down the highway.

We had indeed a nice morning. Little one and I strolled around the block, bought a big new straw broom and a pack of leaf-bags. and spent a couple of hours sweeping the patio and picking up all the little piles of drifty stuff. I came in for the dustpan, which she immediately co-opted and claimed for her own. She'd squat to a little pile, smack the dustpan down atop it, resulting in perhaps two leaves and a twig for her efforts, and turn to the tall leafbag. She'd tiptoe, upend the dustpan, and spill the contents back down her arm, with an occasional bullseye of perhaps half her leaf-load.

I was not welcome to help, except to sweep bits into her pan, and cheer her on---she'd scoop, turn for the bag, and I'd sorta rush to try to run it under where she was aiming, then we'd YAAAAAY! for a job well done.

A hundred times. At least. Doncha just love party prep?

Sunday, June 7, 2009

GRILL MARKS THE SPOT




Chris is rather well-known amongst our friends and neighbors and all the family as being a genius of grill-cookery. And well he should be---he lets neither storm nor gloom of Winter snow stay him from his appointed grilling.

As we walked out through Sears after buying our wedding rings, yea these many years ago, he spied the grill display, and bought one immediately, calling it “Our first piece of furniture together.” When he came up here that long-ago October, stores had stored away their summer items, and he was so disappointed that the Walmart salesman sent him to his own house, where Chris bought theirs right off the patio.

And I’ve become quite adept at holding a big umbrella as he turns or bastes a grillful of chicken or ribs, keeping the rain or snow at bay, whilst dodging a great faceful of smoke. He’s a Pure-Dee dedicated Grill-Man, weather or no.

And, knowing how happy he is to grill anything, any time, I never hesitate to ask for some of his wonderful tenderloins or pulled pork or smoked turkey breast for even the daintiest of occasions. One all-pink-ribboned baby shower featured a huge bowl of pulled pork with all the buns, sauce, slaw arranged amongst the primpy curlicues and fancy salads and cakes.

Warm cornbread muffins with thick warm rounds of turkey breast, separated into the two lobes and sliced across the grain five minutes before serving with a little anointment of cranberry mayo, or lovely pink-to-rose slices of tenderloin, rare and warm, laid onto the cushion of a soft potato roll, with none but their own savory juices or a boat of béarnaise alongside---those get grabbed up fast as we can make them.

Guests love a pretty party, and are happily surprised to find such hearty, delicious items amongst prinky little sandwiches and tiny jewelbox cakes.


There’s something about approaching a buffet or party table, picking up a few bits from the crudite tray, a tiny sandwich, a cheese straw, a bit of fruit, and then seeing the trays heaped with small warm, roll-enclosed sandwiches of lovely aroma and wonderful tastes. No matter how formal the intent of a “tea,” people smile and help themselves, then settle at the table with more anticipation and enjoyment, somehow, when there’s a tray of something special and unexpected. And I’ve seen men, especially, who have not approached the occasion wholeheartedly, thinking all the froufrou a bit much, who enter right into things when they see those tenderloin or savory pork sandwiches. The sandwiches can be as pretty as the ones cut out with cutters and topped with frilly-carved cucumber. Anything can be small and attractively made---just make lots.

Just like guests of different temperaments and ideas, sandwiches of various kinds and flavors and temperatures are welcomed. And the ones from the grill, with the kiss of smoke and the taste and timing of an expert hand---those seem to be the most welcome of all.


Cornbread muffins or brioche/warm cross-cut turkey breast/cranberry mayo

Potato rolls or small croissants with rare tenderloin---bearnaise and jus on the side

Small buns with soy/garlic/ginger-marinated pork tenderloin and butter lettuce

Small biscuits with grill-baked ham---pineapple mustard on the side




Saturday, June 6, 2009

ROLLUPS, SPIRALS AND WRAPS

One of the tastiest of these is the ever-popular, ever gobbled-up (not that any client or relative of mine would do such a thing, but just say the little cylinders disappear as fast as you can bring them from the kitchen)---Asparagus Rollups.

That’s a true Southern convention: a bread, a spread, and something-out-of-a-can. Sometimes all three at once. Not that those are indigenous or entirely exclusive to the South---they just seem to appear a lot on cocktail and party tables. (It seemed that recipes in the Little Church Cookbooks were still specifying "a can of mushrooms" long after even our own smalltown Kroger was stocking a nice array of fresh ones). And the little crispy warm cheesy bites, with the rich sumptuousness of a canned asparagus spear---well, that’s a nice accompaniment to cocktails, beer, iced tea on the lawn, or Aunt Cleome’s secret Wedding-Shower Punch recipe.

I used to call on my sons to help with these---the bread has to be ironed flat, by earnest application of a rolling pin, and the crusts have to be left on, making the labor more intensive. Thus the calling-in of the muscle-brigade, whose own liking of the little goodies extended not simply to enjoying them, but to making whole sandwiches of them, bypassing the flattening step altogether and smearing the spread onto two slices of bread, lining up about ten spears like logs on the bottom slice, laying on the top slice, and sliding the whole thing into the broiler like a tape in a VCR. That makes a mighty fine quick lunch, especially with a slice of melon or some fruit salad.

Simple as pi: Open a couple of cans of asparagus spears, drain out the liquid and discard, and lay the spears gently on paper towels to drain. Meanwhile, stir a small jar of Cheez Whiz with half-a-jar of Durkee’s, a coupla clops of mayo, and a good sprinkle of powdered garlic.

Open a loaf of white bread, flatten each slice, spread with a bit of the mixture, and place a spear at one end. Roll up and place in a buttered 9x13. When all are finished, brush melted butter over all the exposed areas of the rolls, Saran and chill till ready to bake. Preheat to 350, unwrap, bake 15 minutes til crispy and golden.

Slice into thirds with very sharp knife and serve in a napkin-lined bowl or tray. Or serve whole like little cigars, about three per guest, alongside a chicken salad plate with deviled eggs and a slice of melon.


PS: You can try to save labor by buying the thin-sliced Pepperidge Farm, but I've never had any luck trying to make that firm flatness roll into a neat round.

My most vibrant memory of these rollups is of a wedding reception that I catered many years ago, on an ice-slick day with tree-limbs down and the roads like glaciers. I’d braved it in my trusty wagon, and was dismayed on looking out from the reception area into the sparsely-populated pews of the church. I went on with my work, and put the trays of rollups into the oven with just time to bake, slice and put on the table before the people walked into the back for the reception.

One woman, in unaccustomed boots and slacks for church, muffler hanging from her neck and pockets-full-of-gloves sticking out like panniers, stood with a loaded plate of party goodies, eating the crisp little toasty nuggets like popcorn. “I promised my husband I’d be home right after the ceremony, but then about when the vows started, that heavenly scent of toast just rolllllllled out into the church.” I hope it didn’t disrupt the solemnity of the event.

Another client would order a double order of Jalapeno rollups for a party---half to serve cut and arranged prettily for the guests, and the other half left whole in her fridge, for her lunch at her desk during the next week.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jalapeno Rollups


Makes 10 10” flour tortillas --- 80 1" pieces

Put into food processor:

1 or 2 fresh jalapenos, seeded and cut into several pieces
½ medium green bell pepper. ditto
½ medium red bell pepper, ditto
Process til finely chopped

Add to processor:

2 packs cream cheese
2 spoonclops mayo
Good sprinkle powdered garlic
6 green onions, thin-sliced by hand, white and green

Pulse till nicely mixed. Spread now, or you’ll have to bring back to a spreading temperature later.

Spread each tortilla with the mixture---you CAN leave two opposite sides bare for ½ inch or so, as you’ll cut that off later to even it up before slicing. I just spread and roll, and toss the ½ inch selvages into a baggie for cook’s treat later. Roll fairly tightly.

Place rolls side-by-side in pan, lay a damp paper towel atop and Saran til ready to cut. Slice off ends, then cut roll in half, halve the two pieces, then the four pieces, to get eight perfectly-matched slices. Arrange on a pretty platter and garnish with parsley or cilantro and a whole jalapeno.


And I've found that teenage crowds like these with the addition of a couple of teaspoons of Taco Seasoning, right out of the packet, in the mixture. (Me channeling Miss Sandra, here).

To make “seafood” wraps, finely chop a 6-ounce pack of Mock Crab or Sealegs and stir by hand into the above cream cheese/mayo/garlic/green onions. Spread and cut as above. I usually garnish these with butter lettuce holding a few little red crawfish claws, to show that there’s shellfish inside.

The Spirals are the favorite potluck offering of a friend, who rolls tortillas around a mixture of cream cheese, grated jack, green onions, minced salami or pepperoni, and black olives. She spreads it thickly, makes the roll almost twice the size as usual, and slices them much thinner. They’re really pretty, like pinwheels on the plate.

moire non,

Tomorrow: Warm from the grill

TEA-TIME PAST

It's been a BUSY day, from the time I opened my eyes after a couple of hours sleep (I just kept listening for our little one down the hall, here for a sleepover weekend). I stepped down the hall, opened her door, and she smiled a sleepy, rosy smile and reached for a hug. By the time we came down, Chris had the coffee on, and we just cuddled for a bit, getting acquainted with the day.

We met Alabama cousins at Cracker Barrel for breakfast, had a lovely couple of hours, and then they came home with us for a long chat out in the lawn chairs, whilst the lawn crew sorta worked around us, mowing and sweeping and collecting all the debris from this week's storm and my own pruning of several of the trees and shrubs.

The place is shaping up nicely for our proposed July fete (I feel so social using that word. I've read it and typed it, longed for the sweepskirt actuality, but have never used it for any doings of our own---it seems such a literary affectation for anything we'd do for ourselves, but there you are. I think Anne Shirley and Mrs. Bennet would agree across the miles and time that we deserve one, and one we shall have).

And now we've just got home from a lovely anniversary party for our DDIL's parents. We've hugged and talked and laughed, met new people and happily re-met the ones we've known. It's almost twilight, they served a lovely supper, and we're going to get out of these party clothes and into our jammies and watch an old movie on TIVO. Maybe an ice cream cone later.

Meanwhile, a party we cooked for a while ago---former fancies for promises of things to come:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?/topic/95833-eg-foodblog-racheld/page__view__findpost__p__1312764
The text with the photos will carry on, as I'm out of words. And steam.

moire non,

Tomorrow: Rollups and spirals and wraps, oh, my