
blog.rococochocolates
Little
ramblings on writings about food:
In a perfectly delicious Father Brown short story, The
Invisible Man, I was captivated by the first paragraph:
In the cool blue
twilight of two steep streets in Camden
Town, the shop at the
corner, a confectioner’s, glowed like the butt of a cigar. One should rather
say, perhaps, like the butt of a firework, for the light was of many colours
and some complexity, broken up by many mirrors and dancing on many gilt and
gaily-coloured cakes and sweetmeats. Against this one fiery glass were glued
the noses of many guttersnipes, for the chocolates were all wrapped in those
red and gold and green metallic colours which are almost better than chocolate
itself, and the huge white wedding cake in the window was somehow at once
remote and satisfying, just as if the whole North Pole were good to eat. Such
rainbow provocations could naturally collect the youth of the neighbourhood up to the ages of ten or twelve.
G. K. Chesterton, of course.
And the next story in the same book is Lamb to the
Slaughter with the most infamous leg of lamb in written word,
served with some potatoes and a can of peas whose purchase establishes a handy alibi.
Mary Maloney was
waiting for her husband to come home from work.
Sinister sentence, that---especially from a
"children's" writer.
In John Mortimer’s
grim-and-cheeky stories of the Gourmand/Barrister, many mentions of lavish
repasts occur between demise and denoument, stabbing and solving. In Rumpole
Rests His Case, there are numerous breaks for lunch at Pommeroy's for S&K
pie, apple tart, and Chateau Thames Embankment in the glass. Ahhh, Rumpole---the man for whom the
cuisinical term “Trencherman” was coined.
There's one memorable dinner party with some tres retro acquaintances,
whose shawl-swathed lamps and cavernous dining room were enhanced by sitar
music and the odors of what seemed to be "ecclesiastical incense, smouldering carpets and simmering lentils."
Mrs. R.---She Who
Must Be Obeyed---is no shabby cook, either: she provides her Old Darling with a sound Brit breakfast of rashers, eggs,
mushrooms, beans and tomatoes, with six crisp slices in the silver rack. Dear
Horace.
xxxxxx
From my friend Maggie the
Cat, in her online essay, “A Whiter Shade of Sauce.”
“It’s never inspired a wild fandango, let alone cartwheels
'cross the floor. Calling it Béchamel doesn’t make it chic and rolling the
"l"s in balsamella won’t make it sexy. It’s White Sauce, pale, pure
and reliable, the Vestal Virgin of Escoffier’s Mother Sauces.
“It’s a Mama sauce, a Maman sauce, a Mom and Mummy sauce.
There’s no macaroni and cheese, no creamed spinach, no creamed potatoes or
onions without White Sauce. No lasagna, no rissoles; barely a scalloped potato.
No soufflés. No crap on clapboard. No sauce for chicken-fried steak or salmon
patties. No choufleur gratinée or cute little coffins of chicken a la King. No
éclairs, cream puffs, or Boston Cream Pie, because isn’t pastry cream white
sauce with sugar, egg and vanilla?
“In this order, place butter, flour and milk in a saucepan, some
salt, maybe a twist of beige from the nutmeg grinder -- all it calls for is
some attention with the wooden spoon and an eye to the size and activity of the
bubbles. The proportions are way simpler than the multiplication flashcards my
father drilled me with in third grade. My mother called them out over her
shoulder as she chopped parsley and cleaned the big can of salmon.
“I remember: “One tablespoon each of butter and flour for thin,
two for medium, three for thick. Keep stirring. Watch the heat -- you don’t
want to burn it.” Some Maternal Units would never besmirch the snowy stuff with
black pepper -- though not my mother, Julia Child was passionate about the
white pepper only rule. I like the black specks, (always) a grating of nutmeg,
and (often) a pinch of cayenne. When I have extra time I add a fillip of my
own: I throw a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a few fresh tarragon leaves into
the milk, warm it up to the small bubble stage, then let it cool down and
infuse. I strain out the herbs before I add the milk to the roux, pondering the
greatness of the bouquet garni, and what a clever cook I am.”
XXXXXXXXXX
And my response to her wonderful treatment of such a
simple, elegant old stand-by recipe---the secret’s-in-the-sauce kind of concoction,
and which elevates a plebeian mix of flour, butter and milk into elite
territory, along with whawhatever
vegetable, meat, pasta or casserole is cloaked or soaked in it:
Absolutely Breeeelyant, Maggie, as always. Your mastery of the
concept and the execution is impressive, but not surprising. And your research
and knowledge are a formidable team with your incomparable way with words.
I learned to make White Sauce at a very young age, in exactly
the same 1-2-3 over-the-shoulder that you did; my Mammaw would be boning
chicken for a la King, or skinning the tiny blanched pearl onions (specially
ordered once a year, for Christmas Dinner---no canned mush for HER table).
After about the second “making” I noticed that she just kept
right on with her work, humming along with the radio, and I remember the tight
feeling in my chest as the swell of pride in my kitchen independence almost
overwhelmed me. I’d made cakes and cornbread and biscuits by myself for ages,
but WHITE SAUCE! Ladies talked about how hard it was in WMU meeting and at Wednesday Bridge at my friend’s house, while we
hid and listened and snuck little sandwiches. It was mentioned so often, for so
many dishes, I’d thought it was some kind of formula you’d have to learn in
college.
I way later learned the word Bechamel from Italian
neighbors---the ones who taught me to make ravioli from scratch, and pizzelle and latugi. They sang out the word so rapidly as we started putting
together the lasagna---Besh’-meh---that
I had to ask several times, so I could look it up. And it was good ole White
Sauce.
I used the word for quite some time back when I was catering
parties---I’d rattle it off myself like I assumed they knew it, too, and it
FELT impressive. But when I got back to my own old Franklin, melting the butter
gently in the big wide skillet, using a worn-down old flat wooden paddle to
keep every fleck of flour constantly moving---I was standing in that familiar
old kitchen in that tiny shotgun house, hearing my Mammaw’s words so long
unspoken, “A Tablespoon each of Butter and Flour . . .”
All this drought and now the Freshet turns Flood. Anybody got a wrench?