Derby
Day brought a great air of festivity to the entire week, and though we’ve never
participated save having catered some few parties in the past (I trust it did
not tarnish my G.R.I.T.S. Girl card that I had to look up the recipe for
punchbowls full of juleps) I love reading and hearing about all the celebrations---especially
the menus.
The
air was scented with whole gardens of mint, and the great bright flocks of
unbelievable chapeaux parading out into the Spring air were the opposite of
fascinators, though they held a fascination of their own. Tiny wisps of Seussian whimsy balanced above
brows bowed before the bushel-hats of ladies walking like book-on-the-head
modeling lessons, and MORE is certainly MORE on Derby day.
Even
those architectural marvels are unable to eclipse the silver trays of little
sandwiches, biscuits and ham, cheese straws, beautiful desserts garnished
with even more of the mint, and of course, Derby Pie.
The
one thing I have not seen in this year’s displays of lovely dainties is that
familiar red ring of tomato aspic (known only as ASPIC, for recipes for any
other kind are few in the South). And,
except for the beauty of the thing, shining on its nest of lettuce leaves, I
haven’t missed it.
The
flavor and texture of aspic is not one of my favorite delicacies, though in
past years, it graced every luncheon which preceded bridge afternoons, Home
Demonstration Club and myriad showers.
And for decades, many, many kitchens featured a shining copper ring mold
as part of the wall décor.
The
stuff was cut into neat slices, quivering onto the lettuce with a little
shudder. But THEN there was the time
that Mrs. Silverman wanted individual little molds for five tables---twenty
chatty, smoking, lunch-devouring women, mostly with their own cooks (and old
family recipes). I could just feel their
sharp watch and anticipation of one slip or drippage.
And
I never had, until that day, had any misfortune with serving aspic (and
wouldn’t have had THAT day, except Miss Katherine Rhodes had two too many sherries, caught
that big ole headlight diamond in her ring in the Battenburg luncheon cloth,
yanking two plates out of place, and sending nine pieces of silverware crashing onto the
hardwood).
Sousa
himself and all his cymbals had not the reounding CLANG which stopped all those
ladies in mid-word.
But
ON those plates were the ready-to-sit-down-to little pillows of aspic, with their
topknots of homemade mayonnaise and the sidesaddle tender yellow celery
brush lying languidly against the Limoge.
And we all witnessed a miracle of physics/gravity/ angels that day. Both plates slid, one almost tipping into the ample
lap of Mrs. S. herself, and the other turned a lovely half-gainer in the air,
to land neatly on the cushion of aspic in an unoccupied chair, with nary a
bruise nor breakage to the heirloom china.
Laughter
and applause rang out before the spoons stopped clattering, and I had my
plenty-minded mother to thank that there were extras in the kitchen. I’d been afraid that some of them might not
“turn out,” and had made an extra four.
Then
the ladies tasted, and marveled again; they did that little tp-tp-tp with their
lips, tried another bite, and could not quite put their fingers on the
flavor. I’d made the aspic a new
way---with Worchestershire ,
Tabasco , celery salt, and tomato
juice that had been simmered with lemon zest, onion and bell pepper, and then strained. The Knox stirred in, the bowl cooled a bit, then a good measure of vodka stirred in before pouring into the molds.
The
ladies were avidly spooning up globs of solid Bloody Marys.