Sunday, December 21, 2025

GRAPENUTS CHICKEN

 



Years ago, a recipe went round the South for a tasty chicken dish, marinated in Wishbone Italian, rolled in crushed cornflakes, baked til tender and golden. It turned up at church suppers, funeral feasts, potlucks, pitch-ins, and Tupperware gatherings.

We were invited to the home of friends for dinner (we knew the husband well, as he and the men of our family were members of several organizations and all were farmers. I had met the wife briefly on occasion). Now, for the life of me, I cannot imagine what prompted the invitation, except possibly the husband's urging of a social occasion amongst us four.

And I was delighted for an evening which entailed real shoes, a dining room, and someone else's cooking. The idea of sitting down for an entire meal, without jumping up for the salt, refilling glasses, or wiping up spilt ones---that had its charms, as well. And though I did not know these people well, it was going out for the evening, an unusual and lovely thing, indeed.

Living-room-served Appetizer was rumaki, but not bacon-wrapped. The livers and whole water chestnuts had been marinated in the soy mixture, dumped in a baking dish, marinade and all, topped with slices of bacon, and baked til the bacon was brown around the edges.

The whole panful was poured into a clear glass dish, which then resembled some science experiment gone awry---graybrown chunks of boiled liver, long flappy strands of ecru boiled bacon, the whole floating in a brownish fluid flecked with liver crumbs and congealed lumps of blood. We were given toothpicks and told how much easier this recipe was than wrapping all those yucky, bloody livers. And there we stood, all dressed for special, probing our toothpicks into the brothy clumps with the enthusiasm of folks poking a bear with a stick. We emerged with a dripping bit, held our tiny plates beneath on the way to our mouths, and hoped for the best.


But you know, if you could get past appearances, they weren't so bad; the crispy chestnuts had taken on the hue of the sauce as well, so you weren't sure which you might be putting into your mouth, and would be surprised that the soft unctuousness you were expecting might turn out to be a not-unpleasant crunch.


But then came the True Crunch: the famed Cornflake Chicken. But they were out of cornflakes, it seems, so the hostess made do with the next best thing in the cereal cupboard: Grape-Nuts. Now, Grape-Nuts, on a good day and in its natural state, perhaps with a little pool of milk and a scatter of blueberries, is a passably pleasant breakfast. But those hard little nuggets, already baked into a shelf-life of ninety-nine years---well, baking them further still---that was not a good idea.
After the surprise of the first bite, we cut and scraped and managed to eat the INSIDE of the chicken pieces---the outsides resembled wallpaper flocked with BB's. Hoping to avoid a trip to the dentist for repair work, we did some meticulous carving and managed to carry on a conversation, all at the same time. Even after all this time, I can remember trying to separate those little stone crumbs from the tender chicken, corral them in my cheek, then swallow them like aspirin with a few sips of tea, whilst maintaining a conversation.


Side dish was a lovely platter of baked sweet potato surprise, another favorite au courant on the hairdryer circuit. The recipe included mashing the potatoes, then forming them into a ball around a marshmallow, then rolling the balls in: (developing a theme here) TADAAAAAAAA!!! Cornflakes.

Repeat chicken chorus ad lib, with a nice gravelly coating of Grape-Nuts around those mooshy sweet potatoes---like a mouthful of sweet aquarium rocks. How anyone could have thought TWO dishes rolled in cereal would make a balanced meal is beyond me, but the Grape-Nuts carried both recipes to heights undreamed of by the original cooks.

I think of that nice lady occasionally, how she opened her home to us, set her table nicely and cooked us dinner, and how ungratefully snarky my memories are. And I don't think I ever told the story from that day to this---it just seemed so ungrateful, somehow, after all that effort, and not befitting the hospitality.

But I still can't pass the cereal aisle without thinking of that chicken.





7 comments:

  1. HAHAHAHA...OMGOSH- I am laughing out loud at the whole dinner experience. One time my hubby's grandparents (who were VERY proper) were coming to our home for Easter brunch. I had all my recipes made ahead and ready to pop into the oven-except--the sweet potato dish which was made of rounded balls of yams that had been grated to a pebble sized pulp- and then adding crushed pineapple. Well, lo and behold, no grater could be found. Sisters said that Mama'sBoy had taken it out to the sandbox to grate sand for trucking. Hmmm...well, we did have a Snoopy Sno-Cone maker. Imagine cutting potatoes into ice cube size chunks and feeding them thru the Snoopy Sno-Cone maker...The thought was there but the outcome was not great. After 15 frustrating minutes where I managed to get ONE yam thru the Snoopy Sno-Cone maker, I gave up and mashed them and called it good. This was after THE grandmother wondered WHAT I was doing with the sweet potatoes. And, that, in a nutshell, was pretty much what my life was like whenever we entertained them.
    Have a wonderful, Merry Christmas! xo Diana

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  2. How LOVELY to hear from YOU, M'Dear!!! Your bright presence out there in the world is a sweet beacon all these snowed-in-days. And I can just SEEEEE your nervous little hands as Honey Harridan tapped her Dr. Scholl's impatiently over her third martini. Even after my decades of public cooking and delivering and catering, I've had a few moments like that, when something spilled or M'Lynn had to call and tell Myrtle, "These champagne glasses---they're all BROKEN!" It's embarrassing when you have to make do to fix things when someone is staring expectantly. I pray you've had many, many happy years of entertaining since she went on to gripe at the angels.

    SNO-CONE just slays me!!! I wish I could have rescued the day with my Easy Bake Oven!! You have a wonderful Christmas, and all that love surrounding you from near and far---so many of us FAR folks have a great regard and sisterly love for your kind, happy, cheer and outlook on life, and a message from you is a great sunbeam on the snow. Love from INDY, and have ALL the WONDERFUL that is Christmas. r



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  3. My dear R,

    Your Grapenuts Chicken made me smile, wince in sympathy, and then, quite unexpectedly, sent me straight back to my first year at university. I shared a room then, in the halls of residence, with a boy from Memphis: all warmth and drawl and stories of home. One weekend he taught me what he proudly called Crunchy French Toast, the version his mother made for him back home.

    The method was precise and lovingly handed down. After dipping thick slices of bread into the usual egg mixture, you coated them in a crunchy blend of 1 cup of crushed cornflakes (plain or frosted) and 1 cup of crushed pecans, then fried them until golden and fragrant. I remember staring at the cereal bowl with some suspicion and saying, only half-jokingly, “I do wonder what Martha Stewart would have to say about this.” He just laughed and carried on, utterly unbothered by imagined domestic authorities. The result, of course, was magnificent—the sound of knife against crust part of the pleasure.

    I still make that Crunchy French Toast from time to time, and whenever I do I think of him: the small shared room, the improbable intimacy of breakfasts improvised far from home, and the way food carries people forward long after we’ve lost their addresses. I don’t know what became of him after university—we drifted, as one so often does—but the memory remains vivid. Reading about your hostess’s inspired (and fearsome) substitution of Grape-Nuts for cornflakes brought that whole scene flooding back, cereal crumbs and all, though thankfully without the threat of dental catastrophe. Your generosity towards her hospitality, even as you recount the ordeal, struck me deeply. It’s a reminder that kindness and effort often outlast culinary misadventure.

    One of your previous posts on "A Christmas Memory" touched me when I first read it. I’ve loved that story for years and often return to it at Christmas. When I decorate for Christmas, I sometimes play Truman Capote reading it himself—his voice so unmistakable (it might still be available on youtube), hovering somewhere between child and oracle. Aunt Sook has always been dear to me, as have so many of Capote’s characters who live just beyond the margins of the ordinary: Dolly Talbo in The Grass Harp, for instance, or those figures who appear eccentric at first glance but are, in truth, the moral and emotional centres of their worlds. There is something profoundly reassuring in his insistence that tenderness and oddity belong together.

    Your evocation of your own Mammaw and her sisters (those women of grit, humour, and quiet endurance) felt like a continuation of Capote’s lineage rather than a commentary on it. You reminded me again that while men may drift through the periphery of memory, it is so often the women who remain luminous and anchoring. Your post has prompted me to take A Christmas Memory down from the shelf again; I think I’ll read it on Christmas Eve, by lamplight, and hear those voices—yours among them.

    And then there is your heartfelt message today, which I received with no small measure of wonder. I’m delighted you discovered Denton Welch, and heartened that his journals found their way to you so fortuitously. Thank you, too, for your sweet words about our long correspondence. Nearly eighteen years of conversation feels rarer and more precious with each passing season. I am deeply grateful for your steadfast friendship, your generosity of spirit, and the way your voice has accompanied me through so many chapters.

    May you and those you love have the merriest of Christmases, full of laughter, good food, and the warmth of belonging. May the spirit of the season shine brightly within you, and may your pink tree cast its gentle glow both outward and in. And as the year turns, may light find you easily, may words come when you need them, and may the days ahead be generous in simple, sustaining joys.

    With warmest wishes,
    ASD

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    1. Thank you, thank you for that perfect paragraph of Christmas wishes, each crafted and worded exactly for my days, with harmonies of light and simplicity and memories. I so loved your brush with probably your first Southerner: That Memphis boy whose ease and comfort gave him leave to share such a small simple gift of food with a new friend so far from home. Not all wanderers are lost or floundering for a map, and your young fish-out-of-his-pond coped and triumphed with such a small moment, remembered for decades. I'd like to think that he paved the way for other, stumbling acquaintances of the same strange-to-you nurturing to slide smoothly on the path to your friendship and regard---I certainly know ONE who is delighted with the plan.

      Headed out into this crisp iron-cold sunshine for a couple of small additions to New Year's Day dinner---some humble old collards for the GREEN to bring the Year's LUCK to the table with the black-eyed peas on Thursday. THEN, after a little flurry back home with the goods, a pot of Darjeeling, a sunny late-afternoon window, and all those saved-for-best pictures and WORDS of your Christmas. Anticipation and awe abound.


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  4. Oh, my goodness! That appetizer must have been something to see!
    Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to you and yours.

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    1. Indeed it was---I'm sure clouded by Time, but the memory is sharp in several places. I hope you're having a wonderful holiday season, and HAPPY NEW YEAR to all you love and those who love you!

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